Skip to content
Watt Warden

Outage Prep

What to Do When the Power Goes Out

Most of what protects you in the first ten minutes costs nothing. Here is the order, and the reasoning behind each step.

By Sawyer V.Updated Published How we work this out
A flashlight beam illuminating a dark hallway.

Watt & Warden earns a commission on qualifying purchases made through links on this page, at no extra cost to you. It never changes a ranking, and our picks include products we tell you to skip. Full disclosure.

1. Find out how big it is

Before anything else, establish whether this is your house or your street. Look out of the window: are your neighbors' lights on? Is the street lighting on?

If everyone else has power, the problem is yours — check your main breaker and any GFCI outlets that may have tripped. If the street is dark, it is the utility's, and there is nothing to fix indoors.

Report it. Utilities do not automatically know your house is out, and restoration is often prioritized by the number of reports from an area. Most have an outage line, a text-message option and an online map — find yours now and save it, because searching for it in the dark on a phone with 14% battery is a poor experience.

2. Shut the fridge and the freezer, and leave them shut

This is the single most valuable free action, and every opening spends some of it.

The USDA's guidance is specific: perishable food stays safe in a refrigerator for four hours. A full freezer holds for about 48 hours and a half-full one for about 24 — provided the doors stay closed. After four hours without power, refrigerated perishables — meat, poultry, fish, eggs, leftovers — should be discarded.

Two practical moves. Decide what you need before you open the door, and get it out in one trip. And if the freezer is half empty, fill the gaps with bottles of water — thermal mass is what buys the hours, and this works even part-way through an outage.

3. Unplug the sensitive electronics — now, not later

This is the step people get backwards. The damaging voltage spike typically arrives when power is restored, not when it fails. The grid does not come back gently, and the surge as circuits re-energize is what actually kills televisions, computers and anything with a delicate power supply.

So unplug them at the start of the outage, while you are thinking about it — not at the end, when you may be asleep or out. Leave one lamp plugged in so you can tell at a glance when the power returns. More on what an outage actually damages.

4. Deal with water

If you are on a private well, you have no water at all beyond what is already in the pressure tank. The pump is electric. Fill a bath and some containers immediately — you will want it for flushing, washing and drinking.

On municipal water you generally keep pressure for a while, but extended regional outages can affect treatment and pumping and trigger boil-water notices. Filling a couple of containers early costs nothing.

And if you have a basement with a sump pump, this is the moment to think about it — the pump is off, and the weather that caused the outage is often the weather that fills the pit. Sump pump backup, properly covered.

5. Light, safely

Flashlights and battery lanterns, not candles. Candles cause house fires, and a house fire during an outage is considerably worse than the outage. If you have nothing else, a phone flashlight works and a battery pack keeps it going.

Put a light in each occupied room rather than carrying one around — the risk in a dark house is stairs and furniture, not the absence of ambience.

6. Get the information

Your utility's outage map gives a restoration estimate, and that estimate is the most useful thing you can have: a two-hour outage and a two-day outage call for completely different behavior.

This is why a battery on the router and modem is the best-value purchase in this whole category. A modem and router draw about 20W together, so a very small battery keeps them running for hours, and phones can then use wifi instead of cellular data.

7. Only now, the generator

If you have one and the outage is going to last, this is where it comes in — after the free steps, not before them.

The rules do not bend for weather or for tiredness: outdoors only, at least twenty feet from the house, exhaust pointed away from every door, window and vent. Never in a garage, a basement, a shed, on a porch or in a carport. CPSC records nearly 100 deaths a year from generator carbon monoxide, and they happen in exactly this situation. Read the full guide before you need it.

Never plug a generator into a wall outlet to feed the house. It sends power up the utility line at lethal voltage and can kill the lineworker restoring your street. The safe methods are here.

8. Heat or cool, deliberately

In winter: close off rooms you are not using, gather in one, and use blankets before you use fuel. If you have a gas fireplace with a standing pilot it will work; a gas furnace will not, because the blower and controls are electric. Never use a gas oven, a charcoal grill or a camping stove indoors for heat — the same carbon monoxide risk as a generator, in the same house.

In summer: close blinds and curtains on the sunny side early, open windows once the outside air is cooler than the inside, and stay on the lowest floor. If anyone in the house is vulnerable to heat, find somewhere with air conditioning rather than trying to power one.

9. Work out whether to stay

The one nobody plans and everybody should. If the outage is going to run for days in extreme cold or heat, and you have somewhere to go, going is often the right answer and it is not a defeat.

Decide before it becomes urgent, and take a photograph of what is in the freezer on your way out — it is useful for an insurance claim if the food is lost.

When it comes back

  1. Turn things on gradually. Everything restarting at once creates a surge on a freshly restored circuit.
  2. Check the fridge and freezer temperatures. The USDA gives clear thresholds: the refrigerator should be at 40°F or below and the freezer at 0°F or below. Frozen food may be safely refrozen if it still contains ice crystals or is at 40°F or below, though quality may suffer.
  3. Never taste food to check it. The USDA is explicit on this and it is worth repeating.
  4. Reset what needs resetting. Clocks, alarms, thermostat schedules, and any equipment that lost its configuration.
  5. Recharge everything. Phones, battery packs, the power station. The next outage will not announce itself.
  6. Write down what you wished you had. Do it now, while it is fresh. That list is a much better shopping guide than any review site, including this one.

Quick picks

#ProductBest forPrice
1
No photo

Covers steps 5 and 6

Jackery Explorer 300 Plus

288Wh and 8.3 lb — enough for communications and lighting through a normal outage.

Light, phones and the router
2
No photo

The one to have before step 1

Kidde Nighthawk KN-COPP-3 CO alarm

Plug-in CO alarm with battery backup — it keeps working when utility power does not.

Every level of the house

Prices come from the retailer at page-build time and change constantly. Where no live price is available the button reads “Check price” rather than showing a number we cannot stand behind.

The picks in full

01Covers steps 5 and 6

Jackery Explorer 300 Plus

288Wh and 8.3 lb — enough for communications and lighting through a normal outage.

Once the free steps are done, the two things worth powering are the router — so you can find out how long this will last — and enough light to move around safely. Both are small loads.

Skip it ifthe fridge is your concern. The 300W inverter cannot start it.

Published specifications for the Jackery Explorer 300 Plus
SpecificationPublished figure
Usable capacity288 Wh
Cell chemistryLiFePO4 (LFP)
AC output300 W continuous
Weight8.3 lb (3.75 kg)
Solar compatibilitySolarSaga 40/60/80/100 W panels
ControlWi-Fi and Bluetooth app monitoring

Source: Jackery — Explorer 300 Plus product specifications. These are the manufacturer's published figures, not ours — we have not tested this unit.

02The one to have before step 1

Kidde Nighthawk KN-COPP-3 CO alarm

Plug-in CO alarm with battery backup — it keeps working when utility power does not.

If anyone in the house might start a generator during this outage, this is the item that has to already be installed. Nearly 100 people a year in the United States die of generator carbon monoxide poisoning, and it happens during exactly this event.

Skip it ifyou have in-date alarms already. Check the manufacture date rather than buying more.

Published specifications for the Kidde Nighthawk KN-COPP-3 CO alarm
SpecificationPublished figure
SensorElectrochemical
Power120 V AC plug-in with 9 V battery backup
DisplayDigital, 30–999 ppm, refreshed every 15 s
Alarm85 dB
MemoryPeak-level memory of the last detection or test
Warranty10-year limited; UL certified

Source: Kidde — Nighthawk KN-COPP-3 product page. These are the manufacturer's published figures, not ours — we have not tested this unit.

How these were chosen

We did not test these. Nobody at Watt & Warden has plugged one in. What we did instead: read the manufacturer's published specifications, compile them into a table where the figures line up, and compute the numbers manufacturers leave out — runtime against a real appliance load, and what an hour of running actually costs.

Anything that could not be sourced was left out rather than estimated, and every pick names the buyer who should skip it. The full method is here, including where it is weaker than a publisher with a test bench.

Questions people actually ask

How long does food last in the fridge during a power outage?

The USDA's guidance is four hours for perishable food in a refrigerator, 48 hours in a full freezer and 24 hours in a half-full one -- all provided the doors stay closed. After four hours, refrigerated meat, poultry, fish, eggs and leftovers should be discarded.

Should I unplug appliances during a power outage?

Yes, and at the start rather than the end. The damaging voltage spike usually arrives when power is restored, not when it fails. Unplug computers, televisions and anything with a sensitive power supply, and leave one lamp plugged in so you know when the power is back.

Can I use a gas stove during a power outage?

For cooking, a gas range with a standing pilot, or one you light with a match, will work. Never use a gas oven, a charcoal grill or a camping stove to heat a room -- they produce carbon monoxide indoors, which is the same hazard that makes generators lethal in enclosed spaces.

Is it safe to refreeze food after a power outage?

The USDA says food may be safely refrozen if it still contains ice crystals or is at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, though the quality may suffer. Keep an appliance thermometer in both the fridge and the freezer so you can check rather than guess, and never taste food to determine whether it is safe.

Sources

Every figure on this page comes from a published source. We have not tested this equipment, so the specifications are the manufacturer's and the statistics are the dataset's — the arithmetic on top of them is ours, and it is shown in full so you can check it. How we work this out.